Autumn/Winter 2025 Newsletter - Holmer Veterinary Surgery

Welcome to our somewhat belated autumn/winter newsletter (maybe it is the editors age but time really does seem to run away these days!). 2025 has been a busy year at the practice as we, as always, continue to strive to provide the best of care to all our patients. Progress with the development of our adjacent building has been slow, but we hope to start making progress on the extension of our facilities after the new year. This year we sadly said goodbye to Beth and Leanne but have welcomed Becky into the Holmer family.

As a follow on to our last newsletter, which discussed the pro's and con's of castrating male dogs, this issue we look at the current evidence relating to female neutering. In addition we thought we that, having considered what dogs and cats want for Christmas last year, it was only fair to look at the needs of our rabbit and guinea pig companions.

Spaying- what you need to know

What are the advantages of spaying your dog?

Prevention of unwanted mating/pregnancy
Prevention of phantom pregnancy
Removal of the risk of ovarian cancer
Reduction in the risk of uterine cancer
Reduction in the risk of mammary cancer
Reduced risk of perianal tumours
Prevents pyometra (womb infection), as shown in image.

What are the disadvantages of spaying your dog?

Increased weight gain
Increased risk of joint and orthopaedic disease (image of post cruciate surgery)
Increased risk of bone cancer in large breed dogs neutered before 12months of age reported.
Increased risk of urinary incontinence known as Urethra Sphincter Mechanism Incontinence (USMI)
Some suggestion that may worsen anxiety in already fearful dogs.

Should spaying be done before first season?

Whilst there is some evidence that the greatest reduction in risk of mammary cancer is achieved by spaying before the first season there is emerging evidence to challenge this in regard to specific breeds of dogs.
Larger breed dogs should be spayed at an older age >12mths to help reduce this risk of potential joint disease, an certain bone cancer.
We recommend spaying after the first season for the majority of our patients as we feel this is the optimum time to balance the benefits of early spaying against the potential risks.

How long after a season should a spay be done?

The best time to spay your dog is during the anoestrus part of their cycle, when hormone levels are low, this is typically 12-16 weeks post the end of their season. By spaying in this period it helps to minimise the risk of surgical complications.

What are the different types of spaying available?

Ovariohysterectomy – removal of the ovaries and uterus via an abdominal surgery, this is what we offer at Holmer as there is currently no good evidence to support ovariectomy over this procedure.
Ovariectomy – removal of just the ovaries. This can be done via an abdominal surgery or laparoscopic surgery. Laparoscopic surgery is often considered a less invasive procedure and has less risk of hernia formation post-surgery, however the length of time to perform the procedure and the use of carbon dioxide to inflate the abdomen means it has minimal advantage over a conventional surgery in our opinion.

All I want for Christmas

Guinea Pigs

I need protection from pain, injury, disease and suffering.

I need my owner to make sure my housing is safe so that I don’t injure myself, secure to I am protected from predators. My housing should be kept clean and dry, as dirty damp bedding and poor ventilation can increase my risk of respiratory issues and illness, poor substrate could hurt my feet. It is especially important in the summer to make sure I am kept clean, as flies can be attracted to dirty bedding and increase my risk of fly strike. My owners should check on me regularly through the day to make sure that I am happy and healthy.

I should be registered with a vet in case I become poorly. I would also benefit from annual check-ups with my vet, as this can allow for early detection of disease. As I am a pray species, I am very good at hiding signs of illness and so my owners must be able to notice any subtle changes in my eating habits, toileting and behaviour as these may be early indicators of illness. Not eating or toileting is very serious and my vet should be contacted.

I need to be able to perform natural behaviours

As I am a pray species, I would like to have spaces to hide as this can help me to reduce stress – this can be in the form of cardboard boxes and tubing. I really enjoy foraging, hiding treats or food in hay can help encourage my natural foraging behaviours, which can provide mental stimulation for me. I like to be very active and require areas to run and play, having toys can also help prevent boredom. I am coprophagic which means I eat my own faeces; this is completely normal and beneficial for guineapigs. I produce a special, soft, nutrient rich faecal pellet called a caecotroph, which provides me with nutrients that I did not gain in the first-time round digesting. Caecotrophs are normally eaten straight away, however, if guineapigs are not eating their caecotrophs this can be a sign of a problem.

I would like to have a friend!

We are normally social creatures and enjoy the company of other guinea pigs. Ideally, I should be kept as part of a single sex pair or in a larger group. Males should be neutered if kept with a female/s to prevent unwanted pregnancies. New guinea pigs should be introduced slowly and carefully. It is important to remember that guinea pigs and rabbits are not advised to be housed together, rabbits can carry a bacterium that can cause respiratory infections in guinea pigs, rabbits and guinea pigs also have different dietary requirements.

If I am a new addition to your family, please give me time to settle in before handling me, as I may be stressed in my new environments. Please talk to me and sit with me to allow me to approach you to aid in building trust. Please make sure when holding me to keep me close to you and support my bottom so that I feel secure.

I need to have an appropriate Diet and access to water

I am a hind gut fermenter, so I need a lot of fibre for my digestive system to function. Most of my food should be good quality dietary hay, and grass as they are high in fibre for my digestive system and my teeth! Did you know that guineapigs teeth are always growing? Without appropriate food my teeth can become overgrown, which can be very painful and prevent me from eating. That’s why I need my good quality feeding hay, and other enrichment to gnaw on, as this helps to wear down my teeth and helps prevent overgrowth.

I need to have vitamin c in my diet as I cannot make my own, without it I could develop deficiencies and become unwell. Vitamin c can be found in appropriate guineapig nuggets and fresh green veggies, such as kale. It is advised to feed a nugget-based dry food instead of a muesli, as muesli can encourage picky eating in guineapigs and result in dietary deficiencies. I would also like to have fresh vegetables, although not all fruits and veggies are safe for guineapigs, please check which ones are safe before you feed them to me. Please make sure my water is clean and fresh.

I need to have an appropriate environment and housing.

My house should be safe, secure with appropriate hiding spaces and bedding areas, as well as an area for food and water provisions and toileting. In my environment I need to be able to fully stand up on my back legs, and I must be able to popcorn! Popcorning might happen when I am excited or happy, and I will spring into the air! The space should also be large enough for me to run around and exercise, the RSPCA advise that housing for me and a friend (2 guineapigs total) should be a minimum of 120cm x 60cm. A flat or solid flooring is preferred as slats can injure my feet. I also need a separate toilet area and bedding hide. My bedding should also be dust free to avoid irritating my airway.

Although I enjoy being outside, I should be kept out of harsh winds and direct sunlight and please ensure that any outdoor enclosures are predator proof. It may get too cold for me to be outside in winter so I may need to be brought inside to make sure I am warm enough. Although, when inside it is important to keep my enclosure away from draughts and direct heat – such as a radiator.

Rabbits

Freedom from hunger and thirst.

I need to have consistent access to high quality fibre throughout the day and night. Long fibred food, such as hay or grass, is the most important component of my diet and should make up at least 70% of what I eat, to help ensure that my guts remain healthy and active and that my teeth are kept in good condition. I do like fresh green plants but know it is important not to eat too many, I personally like broccoli, parsley, kale, carrot tops and dandelions. If ever I try something new my owner knows only to give me a little to make sure it doesn’t upset my guts. I also eat my sticky poos (caecotrophs) which are like my natural probiotics so great for my gut health.

It seems amazing to think that as a kit (baby rabbit) I could cope feeding only a few times a day. As for rabbit food my owners thankfully know only to feed me pelleted food, yes it looks boring, but it is balanced so is good for my health. I have had cousins who wouldn’t eat anything other than the multicoloured food (pick and mix I used to call it) and they got terrible teeth problems. It is important that I only eat a small amount of pellet food a day, less than an egg cup full (whatever and egg cup is?!) otherwise I am likely to get fat, my friend got fat and it ended up she couldn’t clean herself properly and had problems with her backside. I need constant access to fresh water which should be changed daily, I personally like a nice shallow dish but know other rabbits prefer a drinking bottle.

Freedom from pain, injury and disease

To be honest I am not really a fan of the vets, they always poke and prod me when I go (not great for a prey species like me) but since I was young, my owner had got me used to be handled regularly which has really helped me cope with the experience. It is important we all have regular check-ups so we can get an M.O.T. and have vaccinations to protect us from some fatal diseases such as myxomatosis and viral haemorrhagic disease. My sister has been neutered, not only to prevent my owner from having an ever-increasing rabbit family on their hands, but also to remove the risk of womb cancer and reduce the risk of her developing mammary tumours. I have heard that some female rabbits can get quite cantankerous with their hormone cycles so we don’t have that sort of thing to contend with either thank goodness. When rabbits fight there can be serious injuries, fighting between rabbits occurs most commonly when they are not well bonded so it is important to make sure that the process of introducing a new rabbit is done gradually and patiently, it is important that owners recognise that some pairings are not going to work and this process of making two rabbits like each other cannot be forced.

If my owner notices anything wrong, I know my vet will help me if I am injured, feel unwell or am in pain. If I am off food and/or I stop toileting this can become life threatening for me, so I need my owner to call the vet as soon as possible. If I get smelly around my back end this could be due to or lead to flystrike for which I need urgent attention. If anything does not seem quite right with me I want my owner to phone my vet, even if it is just for advice as I can deteriorate very quickly. I know my vet will do their best to make me feel better again, even if it is the middle of the night. If I am very unwell or injured it is important for me to know my owner can contact my vet and get advice and/or be seen 24/7.

Freedom from discomfort

I like to be able to rest where I feel safe, which can be in my clean cage with soft straw or paper-based bedding on which I can be warm and comfortable. During the daytime I sometimes like to chill out on the grass in the sunshine, but if it is too hot it is important I have access to a shaded area. I need have plenty of room to move about where I feel safe as if I just sit in the same place I am likely to soil myself and this can result is me developing sores and possibly flystrike, his can also happen if my bedding is not changed regularly. I have heard of rabbits who have been trained to use litter trays which can make it easier for their owners to keep their housing clean and hygienic. It is not good for me to be let to exercise on concrete for prolonged periods of time as this can cause me to develop sores on my legs. I know of rabbits that don’t get to go outside at all, that is ok if their owners make sure they are in a suitable environment where they are able to move about on a non-slip surface, where they can run and jump about without the risk of hurting themselves. As a short haired rabbit, I can keep myself clean and tidy but know that long haired breeds of rabbit need regular grooming to help prevent them from being uncomfortable with knots, debris and in some cases a messy back end.

Freedom from fear and distress 

I admit that being a prey species means that I can be prone to anxiety. Through regular handling, starting from when I was young, I realise that it is ok to be gently and carefully picked up by my owner. However, I realise that for many rabbits being picked up feels like being attacked. It is important that my people are calm and patient with me, as if they come at me too aggressively or someone unfamiliar tries to handle me, I am likely to struggle and injure myself. It has taken me time to get used to being handled and petted, it isn’t in my natural instinct to seek human attention but my calm gentle owner has shown me it can be a nice experience. My main response if I am fearful is to run away and hide, so I need to have a place or places I can easily access at all times that mimics my wild relatives burrow. This can be my warm, clean, dry hutch but can also include play tunnels in my exercise area. Living in Herefordshire I never know when I might need to duck out of the way of a hungry Buzzard! My exercise area does have a funny mesh over the top but personally I am not sure what that does and I know that some rabbits have free roam of the garden.

I really don’t like it when my person’s aunt comes over with their dog and it sits staring at me, I find this quite distressing. It will come as no surprise that I prefer not to be in the presence of hunting species (although I know there are exceptions and my great grandfather was best mates with a cat he had grown up with- go figure!). It is not that I am fussy or anything, but I also don’t like loud noises, I have very sensitive hearing which I need to hear those predators coming.

Freedom to exhibit natural behaviours 

I am a sociable creature who craves company of my own kind, so it is important to me that I have my sister to cuddle up to and keep warm with at night, it helps me feel safe, we also like to groom each other and play with each other. Once again, I am lucky that my owners researched my needs before they brought me home and so my sister and I came together bonded. If, goodness forbid, my sister and I aren’t together forever I don’t want to be alone so hope my owners will be able to find a suitable companion for me (or her) if anything were to happen. If you haven’t noticed my lovely strong back legs, they are designed for me to run and jump which I LOVE doing. I need a good space to exercise daily, as a minimum it is recommended a rabbit should be able hop at least 3 times in any direction and stand up on their back legs, I am lucky as I can do more than this as I also have the ability to run up and down on different levels. I enjoy playing with toys including having something safe I can chew on and tunnels to run through for fun or to hide.

Suitable environment

I need a good-sized sleeping area, hutch or cage which is a minimum of 1.8m x0.6m x 0.6m, where I can keep warm, clean, dry and quiet, and where I can snuggle up with my sister. I need my bedding to be changed regularly; I like good quality dust extracted soft straw but am quite happy snuggling up in some clean hay. I know some rabbits who are kept on dust extracted soft shavings (it is important rough shavings are not used as they can hurt my feet, and dust can get in my eyes and irritate my airways). Overall, it is recommended that the space I have to access with my sister is a minimum of 3m x 2m and 1m high to allow me to express all my natural behaviours.

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